Hot tub heaters

Choose a heater by the control system it fits, its voltage and kilowatt rating (commonly 1 kW at 120V, 4 kW or 5.5 kW at 240V), and the tube length and diameter. A complete assembly is the simplest swap. An element alone costs less if the tube and unions are still sound.

We're still adding these to the store. Ask AskTub which part you need and we'll point you to it.

Before you buy

Hot tub heater element and heater replacement basicsHot tub heaters fail from low pH, scale, or running dry. Learn the signs, element vs full heater assembly, and how to match kW, voltage, and size.Hot tub not heating: causes and what to checkA hot tub that will not heat usually has a dirty filter, low flow, or a wrong mode setting. Check these 8 things before replacing the heater.Hot tub tripping the breaker: why the GFCI keeps trippingA hot tub GFCI that keeps tripping usually means a failed heater element, moisture, a bad ozonator or pump, or a worn GFCI. How to narrow it down.

Questions

How do I know my hot tub heater is bad?

The usual signs are a GFCI that trips when the heater comes on, or no heat with good flow, no error code, and the heat indicator lit. Rule out a dirty filter and flow problems first.

Should I buy the element or the whole heater?

Buy the whole assembly if the tube is corroded or leaking or the tub is older. Buy the element if the tube and fittings are clean and you want the lower-cost repair.

Can I install a hot tub heater myself?

The plumbing side is two unions. The wiring connects at the control box and carries 240V, so that part should be done by a qualified technician with the power off.